Adventures very rarely turn out perfect, especially when surfings involved. Even the most optimistic wanderer knows that to be true, but perfection isn’t the goal.
Perfection is a byproduct of so many wildly uncontrollable factors it hardly warrants the effort; expectation, reality, weather, swell, crowds, transportation, health and illness, food, locals and The Fates watching it all and toying with the outcome.
So why bother seeking adventure at all when perfection seems so elusive? What is it that drives us to create stories around ideas, to begin planning a trip based on a third-hand story of a secluded beach on the other side of the globe? Well, why not?
If everything goes to sea and you’re left broke, ill, stranded, tired and broken with your bags due to arrive in three to five days, you still have the stories of your misadventure. Life is a series of collected, shared memories and if we don’t go searching for more, we begin telling the same story over and again and the mind grows weary.
The strange thing about adventure is that the more we seek it, the easier it is to find. We learn to define our own definition of perfection and along the way we collect a lifetime of stories.
Surfer Pictured (in order):