Edits by PSQ
Why do we take to the road? Why do we set out to stand on the edge of tall things, or paddle and fall into exploding oceans? I think it’s because somewhere in our bones, we understand that the routine of ‘making a living’ is farcical.
When we become aware of that mixture of discontent and longing for something authentic, it becomes impossible to not want to set out on an adventure.
I used to think of it as an escape. But the more I hit the road and immerse myself in nature, the more I’ve come to see it as a reminder. A reconnection. A returning.
I’m lucky. I have full battalions of friends who never turn down a road trip. Ever. Recently when setting off down the Great Ocean Road with Dan, Leif and Kristy, we had hopes of finding exciting surf, drinking beers, and shooting photos of humans engaged in both.
We descended into Victoria’s southwest, with music swimming about the car at all times. Initially, it proved difficult finding any decent surf. Though there was a large swell, winds were unsavoury. Instead, we scrambled up and over things, finding angles and moods that would move us to create imagery.
We stopped at pubs in nearly every town and enjoyed pints of a locally brewed ale. And on the last day, our hope for exciting ocean became a reality. Leif and I dived into the ocean giggling, and fell into tube after tube as they crashed along a shallow rock shelf.
I realised during that surf that we had forgotten, if only for a few days, that there were humans a few hours away being very important in their suits. And I knew that we had been engaged in an authentic moment, and had returned truly to being.